February’s wine of the month is the stunning De Waal 2001
from Uiterwyck Estate’s “Top of the Hill” vineyard.
This vineyard is home to
the oldest Pinotage vines in the world, so the wine is liquid history. The
vines grow as bushes on a gently sloped low hill with a large spreading wild-fig tree
right on the summit, visible for miles. The tree offers shelter from the sun to
farm workers who sit under it while eating their lunch.
I’ve always thought “Top of the Hill” wines needs time to show their best,
and with 12 years age I think it is at the start of a long peak. Tannins have
smoothed, fruit has lost the precocity of young Pinotage and become sleek. The
wine is similar to an aged claret but with more fruit and the underlying
sweetness typical of Pinotage.
Lovely stuff, and sadly my last bottle.
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