WoTM- Fairview Broken Barrel Pinotage-Durif 2017

My Wine of The Month for March is Fairview’s Broken Barrel 2017 which is a blend of Pinotage and Durif aka Peteite Sirah.

Every year the Broken Barrel range features a ‘once only’ blend, after which the barrel is broken – that blend never to be repeated. Which is regrettable in this case because this blend is jolly tasty.

For 2017 the Fairview team paired two varieties that resulted by the hand of man, in this case Dr Abraham I Perold from South Africa and Dr François Durif from France, both of whom are pictured on the attractive label.

The variety credited to Durif (a cross of Syrah and Peloursin) goes under two names, Petite Sirah in the USA and Durif in Australia. Fairview was the first in South Africa to grow the variety and they are currently using Petite Sirah for their varietal but have, in the past, used Durif.  

The Broken Barrel wines are available only from the winery, and I was told by tasting room staff the blend is 50/50 but the fact sheet on Fairview’s website shows Pinotage 46%,  Durif 38% and Tannat 16% and  says  the 'Pinotage is grown in the Swartland and the Durif on the Paarl Mountain as trellised and irrigated vines. Grapes were destemmed, crushed and fermented separately in open top wooden foudres. Pump overs and punch downs were done 3-4 times per day during fermentation to extract flavour, colour and tannins from the berries. Finally, the wine was pressed and matured in barrels for 24 months. A combination of French and American 225L oak barrels were used of which 20% were new.'

The wine has a bouquet of cedar wood and in the glass is almost black, although streaked with ruby highlights when catching the lights.

An intense wine, offering dense flavours of black plums and cherry, with spices. A deeply satisfying wine that I’d love to be able to get more of. 14.1%abv, costing 120 Rand only from Fairview.

I bought this wine at Fairview on 9 March, before wineries started to close and lockdown started.

One can visit the Goat Tower next to an empty car park via the live web-cam at https://www.fairview.co.za/live-cam/

Delheim Video - - Nora Thiel on Pinotage Rose 2020

Delheim Winery co-owner Nora Thiel talks about and tastes the newly released Delheim Pinotage Rose 2020.

Delheim Video - August Pepe on Delheim Pinotage 2017

Visitors to Delheim's Cellar Tasting Room will remember manager August Pepe who leads tastings and winery tours.

In this video he discusses and tastes Delheim Pinotage 2017

WoTM - Beyerskloof Winemakers Reserve 2016

My Wine of the Month for March is Beyerskloof Winemakers Reserve 2016. This wine isn’t listed on Beyerskloof’s website and it’s only on sale at the winery.

Red Leaf Bistro

I was in the Cape in March and an opportunity to have another Pinotage Burger in the Red Leaf Bistro was a must.



We ordered Winemakers Reserve to accompany the burger and took three bottles away with us.



Winemakers Reserve is positioned between Pinotage Reserve and Diesel. It is a blend of the best ten 225L barriques of the Pinotage Reserve, thus a there is a max of 3,000 75cl bottles. The 2017 vintage was a Pinotage Top 10 Winner in 2019, but that is not yet on sale.



Winemakers Reserve 2016 is dense, and akin to a bud about to open. One can taste greatness, berries and plums and a lick of tannin, but it will reward more time to blossom. 

The Pinotage Reserve 2017, though a year younger, is more approachable. Thus for bottles I opened, I gave them time in the glass before drinking and I’ll keep for a couple of years those I brought home.

Fermenting Pinotage at Beyerskloof. Planks for standing on when punching down cap, and stainless steel cooling pipes

Winemakers Reserve brings a new red Pinotage to Beyerskloof's portfolio, which goes like this

Name	Wine of Origin	Cost at Winery	Notes
Pinotage	Western Cape	40R	The enjoyable entry level screwcapped Pinotage with a white label, aged in tank with oak staves.
Reserve Selection	Western Cape	Not Available	Export label, blend of barrel and tank stave aged. In UK, bulk shipped and bottled in UK with screwcap.
Reserve	Stellenbosch	55R	Barrel aged, cork
Winemakers Reserve	Stellenbosch	250R	10 best barrels of Reserve, cork
Diesel	Stellenbosch	850R	Wide heavy bottle, selected old vineyard, cork

Pinotage Tap Turned Off

Diemersfontein’s popular Pinotage on Tap (POT) festival will not take place this year. 

Winery owner David Sonnenberg says that the event is “on pause” and that in 2020 Diemersfontein will be “devoting ourselves to a series of smaller events in which we can bring the diversity of our range, to the glasses of our equally diverse wine lovers. We’d like to thank all the die-hard POT fans for their joyful, loyal and energetic participation over the last fifteen years!”  

Pinotage on Tap celebrated Diemersfontein’s cult ‘coffee’n’chocolate’ Pinotage, a style that they created 20 vintages ago. Each year's new vintage was available on tap from a barrel.

For next years 21st vintage  Diemersfontein promise  “some new, refreshed, events to be announced in 2021”.

Over the past 15 years POT has taken place in various locations throughout South Africa as well as the winery, and in 2012 David Sonnenberg took a barrel of ‘coffee’n’chocolate’ Pinotage to England and memorably pitched the POT marquee on the South Downs of coastal Sussex.

David Sonnenberg's POT announcement is here.

WoTM- Delheim Vera Cruz Pinotage 1998

My Wine of The Month for February is Delheim 'Vera Cruz' Estate Pinotage 1998.

Vera's self-proclaimed cross was her husband, Michael 'Spatz' Sperling, the patriarch of Delheim who sadly passed away at 86 years on 8 October 2017. (see here)

I kept this wine longer than I should have, mainly because I lost track of it and had listed it as 'missing', only to recently find it.

The cork broke and although I managed to use the corkscrew to winkle out the lower half it was crumbling away.

The wine was pale pink in the glass, but had a delightful taste; aged certainly but elegant, with a sweetness I credited to the Pinotage variety. There was plenty of fine sediment and after about 45 minutes in the glass the wine started fading. But by then we had almost finished the bottle. 

Lovely, and an experience to savour, but I should have opened it earlier. 22 years is a long time for any wine.

Rhebokskloof Pinotage 2016 is Indy Best Buy

John Clarke, in The Independent (UK) names as The Indy Best Buy Rhebokskloof Vineyard Selection Pinotage 2016

"this example from ...  Paarl, simply offers silky, dark-red fruit flavours with an intriguing, slightly smoky aroma. If you like pinot noir, it’s worth taking this step beyond."

Pinotage's bad rap is a mistake!

Olly Smith at The Mail on Sunday (London) says “Pinotage is often given a bad rap. But this is a mistake” and he gives his take on 3 supermarket own labels – including Marks & Spencer's Field of Dreams that I featured in my last post. 

He also recommends Bellingham Homestead Pinotage which is a cracker “Truffly, symphonic, resonant and rich” and he makes his Wine of the Week Kanonkop Estate Pinotage 2017 “Iconic, silky and elegant red to blow your mind. As good as Pinotage gets.”

.

WoTM – House of Dreams Pinotage 2019

My Wine of the Month for December is Marks and Spencer House of Dreams 2019. 

This image from M&S doesn't show a vintage

House of Dreams is made for them from Swartland fruit by Ben Jordaan (Kumala Wines) and M&S’s own winemaker Sue Daniels, and bottled at Journey’s End winery.


This is a lighter ‘beaujolais’ style wine with violets and bubblegum on the nose. It’s soft and fruity, tasting of raspberries and seems quite sweet. With alcohol at 13.5% I imagine there’s a goodly amount of residual sugar.


I didn’t find much body or depth in this wine and, although I can see its appeal, I much prefer the M&S Bellevue Estate Houdamond Pinotage albeit costing £13.50 against House of Dreams’ £8.

Pinotage Lights My Fire: The Herald

Pete Stewart, in Scotland's  The Herald writes that cold is gripping Glasgow and thus:

"We clearly need to source a big, spicy red to warm the cockles.

Pinotage always lights my fire, but it’s definitely a ‘marmite’ wine in that it’s not for everyone. I love its brash character and the sheer depth of unusual flavours in the glass. These flavours can include smoky bacon, balloons and blue cheese. It’s a bit like drinking the juice of spicy plums and dark berries…from a wellington boot."

He recommends: 

Swartland Private Collection Pinotage 2017 "such good value that you can talk yourself into buying two bottles." 

Kanonkop Estate Pinotage 2017  "manages to perfection the difficult balance between elegance and full-on dark, spicy fruit."

WoTM - Kanonkop Estate 2006 Pinotage

My Wine of the Month for December is Kanonkop Estate 2006 Pinotage.

I've been buying and keeping Kanonkop for decades and while they are great young they are sublime with a decade or more aging. This was one of three remaining from 15 that I bought in April 2009. I will drink the others soon because, although I think they will keep for years more, they are at their peak now.

This was one of three remaining of 15 bought in April 2009.

 Pinotage's youthful exuberance has been replaced by linear sophistication, with underlying Pinotage sweetness. A delightful drink that was soon emptied.

Kaapzicht, Lievland are Exceptional Pinotages - Washington Post

Dave McIntyre in The Washington Post rates as ‘exceptional’ Pinotages from Kaapzicht and Lievland. 

He says ‘Pinotage is South Africa's equivalent of California’s Zinfandel’.

Of the Kaapzicht Pinotage 2016 he says ‘Kaapzicht makes a lovely, bright version with berry fruit and a good frame of tannin to sustain the long finish.’ 

Lievland Vineyards Bushvine Pinotage 2017 is ‘a more savory expression of Pinotage, from old vines. There is dark fruit here, but the lasting impression is a comforting earthiness, with hints of wild mushrooms and forest air ... this wine’s stillness suggests power waiting to be unleashed.’ 

Read the full reviews here. 

Dawn Egan for The Irish News makes her Wine of the Week the Co-op’s Irresistible Swartland Pinotage 2017 made by Duncan Savage. She says it’s ‘smooth, juicy, fruit forward, plummy style’ and ‘would make a great pairing with a roast leg of lamb Sunday dinner, given its bold brambly, mulberry fruits, hint of smoky spiciness and long finish.’ 

Read the full review here.

WoTM - Horton Pinotage 2014 and Rose 2018

My Wines of The Month for November are from Horton Vineyards. Founder Dennis Horton was the Pinotage pioneers on east coast USA.

Horton Vineyards 2014 Orange County is the standard red Pinotage which they've been producing from the variety they first planted in 1993. They have recently introduced a rosé Pinotage.

The 2014 red Pinotage is already showing brown tinges and is lighter in colour than many others. It needs time to open up as it's closed on first pour and so would benefit from decanting.

Then it shows coffee on the nose. This is a thoroughly enjoyable wine with a reasonable 13.7% abv. It has cherry and berry fruits, with some coffee and chocolate flavours. There's enough acidity to encourage another glass.

At the American Wine Society National Conference in the warmth of St Pete Beach, Florida, I opened Horton's newly launched rosé Pinotage with an eye catching label called Gears and Lace from their Steam Punk line of wines. 

Horton Gears and Lace  Rosé Pinotage 2018 was a lovely bright dark pink, darker it seemed, than some Burgundies. On the nose was smoked Gouda, in the mouth we tasted a tang of watermelon. The wine was smooth, refreshing and quite lovely.

Platter's 2020 5 Star Pinotages

The 2020 edition of Platter's South African Wine Guide has just announced it 5 star wines.

There are six varietal Pinotages and two Cape Blends. 

Beeslaar Pinotage 2017
Beyerskloof Diesel Pinotage 2017
Diemersdal Reserve Pinotage 2018
Flagstone Time Manner Place Pinotage 2017 *
Kanonkop Black Label Pinotage 2017

Beyerskloof Diesel Pinotage 2017

Beyerskloof Faith 2015 (Cape Blend) *

Kaapzicht Steytler Vision 2017 (Cape Blend)

* indicates the  highest-scoring 5-star wines in their category and chosen as Platter’s Wines of the Year.

Two winemakers each have two wines with the coveted five stars. Abrie Beeslaar (Beeslaar and Kanonkop) and Anri Truter (Beyerskloof).

Congratulations to all involved, and also to the Platter Guide in its 40th annual edition of this invaluable and unique miniature encyclopaedia of South African wine.

WoTM - Neethlingshof Owl Post Pinotage 2015

My Wine of The Month for October is  Neethlingshof Estate 'Owl Post' Pinotage 2015.

Owl Post is a barrel selection from hand picked single vineyard Pinotage, named after posts erected through-out the vineyard.  

Neethingshof says “The Owl Post recognises Neethlinghof’s integrated pest management system. Owls play an important role in keeping rodent infestations in check (and without the use of chemicals). To encourage the return of these nocturnal birds of prey to the estate, Neethlingshof successfully erected breeding-friendly owl posts in the vineyards.”

Winemaker De Wet Viljoen told me that he thought the 2015 Owl Post would reach its best in 2019.

On pouring it was opaque, a dense dusty red/black damson colour. On the nose there's cedarwood and berry fruits. This is a serious wine, slowly revealing dark plums, damsons and cherries, with a hint of tobacco and leather. Though enjoyable drinking now, this is one that will last.

Pinotage Day is Today

Today, 12 October, is International Pinotage Day 2019. 

Join me in celebrating with a glass of Pinotage.

Kanonkop Pinotage Tasting at Vivat Bacchus

To London’s Farringdon Vivat Bacchus Restaurant and Wine Bar for a tasting of five Kanonkop Estate  Pinotages from 1993 to 2000.

There are 14 of us in the lower basement room. Our host is South African owner Gerrie Knoetze. The bottles, which come from the restaurant's cellar, were opened an hour before the start of the 7pm tasting.

We have a fresh ISO glass for each wine, which are served in turn. All wines are the Estate bottling.

Gerrie starts with a brief history of wine in the Cape, Pinotage and Kanonkop.

Gerrie Knoetze

1993 – it’s hard to realise this wine is 26 and a half years old. It has good colour though fading and light bodied. It’s quite austere, offering flavours of dried fruit, leather and tobacco.

1995 – slight vegetal nose, light bodied but lots more fruit on the palate. With time in the glass, and returning to it we are surprised how it has opened and added mocha to its flavours
.
1997 – touch of mustiness on the nose, and colour is fading. While there’s richer fruit flavours, this tastes older and more closed

1998 – darker colour, cedar wood, strawberry and cherry tastes, enjoyable drinking

2000 – tastes young, fresh rich deep colour, beautiful sweet berry fruit flavours.

A vote on the favourite wine of the night was split between the 1998 and 2000.

A Pair of Pinotage Podcasts

Beyers Truter cellar master and owner of Beyerskloof was on air at Cape Talk 567AM Radio talking Cape Blends with wine writer Malu Lamber and host Zain Johnson.

Why have a Cape Blend starring Pinotage? Beyers says "If you taste a Bordeaux blend, it reminds you of Bordeaux. If you taste an Italian blend, it reminds you of Italy. You taste a Cape Blend, it reminds you of the Cape". 

The talk, which lasts 17 minutes, can be listened to here.


In the USA Johan Malan, cellar master and owner of Simonsig was interviewed by Scott Greenberg of Washington D.C.'s WTOP 103.5 FM  Radio. Johan discusses the role Pinotage plays in Simonsig's Kaapse Vonkel Brut Rose MCC sparkler, the history of Simonsig  and their Redhill Pinotage.

They open and taste Simonsig wines and Scott Greenberg says: "Until now, I was generally not a fan of Pinotage. But the 2016 Simonsig Estate Redhill Pinotage made me a big fan of the hearty red grape."

The interview, which lasts 46 minutes, can be listened to here. The same page has Scott Greenberg's notes on the wines they tasted.


.

Upcoming Kanonkop Pinotage Tasting in London

Five mature vintages of Kanonkop Estate's Pinotage will be poured next 7pm, Monday 7 October, at a tasting organised by London's Vivat Bacchus restaurant.

The wines, from Vivat Bacchus's cellar, will be tasted from oldest to youngest, starting with 1993 vintage, then 1995, 1997, 1998 and finishing with 2000.

Tickets cost £39 plus booking fee. Attendees are offeredt a 15% discount on food and wine when they eat at the restaurant before or after the tasting.

See you there!

Details and booking here

WoTM - Short Street Pinotage Barbera 2018

My Wine of the Month for September is Short Street Pinotage Barbera 2018

I’ve not seen this blend before, so had to try it and was glad I did.

The winery behind the wine is not mentioned on the label, but as Short Street is “the shortest street in Riebeek Valley” and the appellation is Swartland I guessed it was made by Riebeek Cellars, which was confirmed by its A-Code - A250.



Riebeek don’t have such a blend shown on their website, so perhaps it is a special  bottling for UK importers Off-Piste Wines. It has a UK specific back label.


The blend proportions aren’t available, but since Pinotage is listed first I assume Barbera is the junior partner. However, from the taste there’s more than a dash of it.


On the nose there’s cedar wood and berry fruits. The wine is a rich damson red colour and it has a creamy mouthfeel backed by tannins. Barbera’s bright fruitiness shines. I really enjoyed this wine which had lots of fruit and spice.


It’s bottled in the Cape and closed with a screwcap. It cost £9.99 from Majestic in the UK