My wine of the Month for July is truly a rarity. Indeed, it deserves
the overused word ‘unique’, for it is a blend of two South African varieties,
Pinotage and Roobernet.
Roobernet is a crossing between Cabernet Sauvignon and Alicante
Bouschet. Professor Chris Orffer at
Stellenbosch University thought and intended that the latter vine was South
Africa’s historic Pontac. Both are rare teinturer varieties, meaning their
flesh and juice are red instead of clear like nearly all other wine grapes. The
crossing was made in the vineyard and Prof Orffer had doubts later and DNA examination
showed the true parentage
Roobernet doesn’t appear to have grabbed winemakers
attention. This is the only bottle I have seen its name on, although I
understand it has subsequently appeared in occasional blends but the only
varietal I am aware of is a Cape Ruby port style Roobernet made by Jacques
Smit.
I expect, tho’, that it appears uncredited in some red wines
as teinturer grapes make very deep red-black wines useful for adding colour to otherwise
pale red wines.
I bought this wine, the first and last, Pinotage Roobernet
made by Fleur du Cap at their cellar shop at the Bergkelder in Stellenbosch, carried
it back to the UK and kept it for a
special occasion. A recent discussion about
Pontac reminded me that I’d kept it long enough.
I feared it may be passed its best, but I think at 13 years
old I found it at its peak. I have no idea what Roobernet should taste like,
but its 45% contribution seems to have given a solidity and base notes to the
55% Pinotage majority. This was a four square serious adult wine, full bodied
with a sweet core to give lift (presumably from Pinotage) and an discrete spiciness.
I greatly enjoyed it with dinner and if they make any more, I’ll be buying.
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