Pinotage – from Reviled to Revered

Interesting article by industry expert Michael Fridjhon in the latest WINE magazine which starts "The turnaround on Pinotage – from reviled to revered – has been remarkably swift."

Fridjhon goes on to say that while Pinotage is a difficult grape from which to make wine "This is a little like blaming a fast car for handling badly. Brilliantly designed vehicles create the illusion that the driver knows what he’s doing, but there does come a point where the better driver does the better job."

The evidence for the turnaround is that " it garnered more gold medals this year at the Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show than any other category" and the "number of stellar-premium Pinotage-based wines" now on the market that have continued to sell at high prices each year, showing that "the wines are living up to their pretensions."

Fridjhon finishes by asking that its time for thevariety "to be accorded a degree of respect."

The article is currently online at www.winemag.co.za/article/a-long-road-2011-01-03
unforgiving variety

WINE Magazine's Pinotage Tasting

In April I posted about WINE magazine's upcoming Pinotage tastings to be hosted by a "leading Pinotage winemaker". I couldn't attend so I am indebted to Dusan Jelic who went to the 10 June event at Mount Nelson Hotel in Cape Town which was hosted by L'Avenir winemaker Tinus Els.

Dusan says

"The first time I tried Pinotage some seventeen years ago in Johannesburg I was lost. Completely overwhelmed and swamped by a wave of tastes, ideas and subtle signs I had never experienced beforehand.

It was like plunging into a meadow of unfamiliar flowers, unknown birds singing in strange tunes about lands I could only have ever guessed at. That wine was so different than anything I tasted before.

My pretty modest wine knowledge at the time couldn’t help me understand it, so probably out of genuine curiosity I swiftly fell in love with Pinotage..."

There was an eclectic choice of ten wines which included some less familiar names...

Dusan blogged detailed tasting notes here.




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WINE Tastes Pinotage

WINE Magazine will be holding a Pinotage tasting in Cape Town on 23 June 2009 and in Johannesburg on 1 July 2009.

The wines shown at the seated tasting will be ten top-rated wines as reviewed in the June issue of WINE.

Details are

Cape Town, 23 June 2009, 18:15 for 18:30
Mount Nelson, Gardens

Johannesburg, 1 July 2009, 18:15 for 18:30
The Rosebank, Rosebank.

Tickets cost R120 per person and can be booked by calling 0860 100 205 or by sending an email to subs@ramsaymedia.co.za or book online at www.winemag.co.za

"Pinotage has undergone a change" -- Grape

Pinotage expert Angela Lloyd has been tasting 96 varietal and 24 Pinotage blends for WINE magazine and she’s blogged some interesting thoughts in Grape.co.za on where Pinotage is today.

She says

“That Pinotage has undergone a change, there is no doubt. Our line up clearly showed that aggressive acetone character and those thin, rough tannins are just about a thing of the past. Today, the profile encountered may feature generous black cherry, summer pudding or raspberry aromas, rich, silky flesh with refreshing acid and those troublesome tannins, taut but well-manicured. Oaking too is more often complementary and harmonious.”

She expects WINE will award 2 and 3 star ratings to these “joyful, approachable wines with their juicy red fruit and, hopefully pocket-pleasing prices” which will give no “indication of just how enjoyable they are to drink now.”

She also has some words for coffee Pinotages which she calls a “cynical recipe” for “coffee masquerading as wine”.


Read the whole article at Grape.co.za

WINE Magazine's Pinotage Whines

WINE MAGAZINE - South Africa's equivalent to Decanter - has recently turned against Pinotage with a vengeance. Deputy editor Christian Eedes is a big fan of Shiraz but is unable to praise that variety without disparaging Pinotage at the same time. Some of his email newsletters have literally infuriated Pinotage makers and the print magazine seems to miss no opportunity to take a dig at the variety. It’s a rare issue that doesn't have an anti-Pinotage letter. One was from a man who had taken a mouthful of a Cape Blend from a friends glass; he didn't like it so felt compelled to write to WINE to complain about Pinotage. Another called for all Pinotage to be uprooted as it’s an 'embarrassment to our country". If you're surprised that no-one has written in response, well they have, but printing pro-Pinotage letters doesn't seem to match WINE’s current direction.

Since 1997 WINE has promoted a Pinotage Champion Award, in association with the SPAR grocery chain, but the competition was abruptly junked this year in favour of a similar Shiraz challenge. In its place was ‘Value for Money’ Pinotage, awarded to 2002 vintage Pinotage costing under 40 ZAR that scored highest in the magazine’s tasting over the previous year.

Editor Fiona McDonald says “There’s a level of excitement and enthusiasm about Shiraz and its potential that Pinotage cannot match”

Congratulations to the three winners of WINE’s new value for money award

• Du Toitskloof 2002 (28 ZAR)
• McGregor 2002 (24 ZAR)
• Lutzville ‘Most Westerly’ 2002 (18.40 ZAR)

Meanwhile in the rest of the world, Israel has produced it first Pinotage “not only a rousing success in its own right but perhaps the very best wine ever from Barkan” winery , and Muddy Water winery in New Zealand claims Pinotage “could be to New Zealand what Zinfandel is to California."

Christian Eedes, whose opinion is "Pinotage is so 1990s", said in February 2004 "Cape Blends in general, might be superficially entertaining but they ultimately lack the depth to count amongst the truly great wines of the world." In July 2004 the International Wine & Spirit Competition declared the worlds best blended red wine is a Cape Blend. That is the best of any red blend from the 30 countries who entered the competition.