05 March 2019
Visiting Aaldering Vineyards
Aaldering Vineyards saw
their first harvest in 2007 with the first release in 2009. Owners Marianne and
Fons Aaldering bought the farm, then called Hidden Valley, in Devon Valley, Stellenbosch, in
2004. The Aaldering’s home is The Netherlands where they owned airline catering companies.
It was their first
winery and Fons knew what he wanted. Only the best. “Nothing but five Platter stars
will do,” says marketing managing Gert-Jan Posthuma, “and if they make six
stars the best, then that’s what we want. We never stop striving.”
To that end they have
built a new computer-controlled winery in 2013. Tanks can be set to a particular
temperature of within a range. If limits are breached a message is texted to winemaker
P J Geyer’s mobile phone and he can use it to change settings.
They buy 30% of their
oak barrels new from four different French coopers in France each year. 30% of
wines are aged in the new barrels, the rest in 2nd, 3rd
and 4th fill.
Wines are aged for
approximately 24 months before being pumped into tanks, and fined and filtered
before bottling. They use mobile bottling line and are intending getting their
own labelling machine. The bottles come from France. The Bordeaux shaped bottles
have a broad neck and taper downwards. “We are the only winery in South Africa
to use this shape,” says Gert-Jan.
Aaldering annually produce
120K bottles in their premium range and 30K in the Florence range.
The winery roof is clad
in solar panels. “On a sunny day, like today”, said Gert-Jan, “we are totally
off the grid.” Which is invaluable currently when Eskom, South Africa’s
electricity supplier, can’t cope with demand and is making rolling power
outages.
The winery incorporates
a cold store where just picked grapes are brought down to 6C.
The winery buildings
are attractively designed. Three spacious guest lodges, furnished with antique
furniture and modern kitchens and televisions, are housed in a traditional Cape
Dutch building that looks as if has stood for hundreds of years, but was recently designed and built under the Aaldering’s direction.
When I visited the
large vineyard that stretched the length of the property was bare, its red soil
waiting for wooden poles stacked by the side that would hold trellis wines. “That
was Shiraz,” Gert-Jan told me. “But it’s a hot slope and Vinpro and viticulture
experts from the University took samples and both agreed it was the best place
for Cabernet Sauvignon, so that’s is what we’ll be planting.
The 6ha Pinotage
vineyard was planted in 1997 and is on
the opposite side at the top of a slope.
“We’re 155 metres above sea level here,” said Gert-Jan, pointing down the valley
“and we get a stiff cool breeze from False Bay in the evening.”
Inside the luxurious
tasting room owner Fons Aaldering and winemaker P J Geyer are in earnest conversation
over mugs of coffee.
I sit on the veranda,
overlooking vineyards, with a wooden platter holding eight tasting samples.
Aaldering make four
Pinotages, two red, a white and a rosé. Also tasted were a Sauvignon Blanc,
Chardonnay, Shiraz and a Cabernet-Merlot blend.
Unusually and most
creatively, each wine has a tasting note in the form of a poem. These were
written by the winemaker and his wife.*
Sauvignon Blanc 2018
Crisp and dry with racy
acidity and a very long aftertaste which lasted so long I held off tasting the
next wine. Lovely!! Ten year-old vines. 14.32% abv.
Pinotage Blanc 2017
There are not many
white Pinotages on the market. This was not done any favours by being presented
after the expressive savvie. It was light bodied, clean and refreshing, with a
underlying creaminess. A super aperitif wine. Aged on lees for four months. 20
year old vines, 13.05% abv.
Chardonnay 2017
A very expressive wine,
flowery and mouthfilling. A blend of three components: free run juice fermented
in stainless steel, pressed juice in stainless steel tank and 30% barrel
fermented in 2nd, 3rd and 4th fill 300L barrels, all undergoing
regular battonage. 10 year old vines.14.17% abv.
Pinotage Rosé 2018
This is an ethereally
pale pink, reminding me of Provence. It offers clean, fresh rose-petal and strawberry flavours. From 20
year old vines, 13.5 % abv.
Lady M Pinotage 2018
This is an unwooded
wine, named in honour of Marianne Aaldering and her favourite wine. There’s
crystallised violets on the nose and even without barrel aging is quite grippy
with drying tannins. A food wine for sure. A vineyard selection; grapes hand harvested, destemmed but not crushed. Five days sold soaking at 14C before gentle pressing at five Balling. 13.8% abv.
Pinotage 2016
This tastes older than
the vintage suggests, with spiciness, hints of dark chocolate with a suggestion
of mushrooms underneath. 18 year old vines, 14.69% abv.
Shiraz 2015
Classic Shiraz, with
spices and fresh ground pepper od black fruits. 15 year old vines, 14.48% abv.
Cabernet Merlot 2012
This doesn’t taste its
age, it is full of youthful bright punchy berry fruit flavours. Great drinking now,
would age further. 60% Cab/40% Merlot from 13/14 year-old vines. After malo in stainless steel tanks, wines were aged for 25 months in 35% new 225 litre French oak barrels before blending. 15% abv.
Thanks to Gert-Jan Poshuma
for showing me winery.
* Tasting poems for all of Aaldering’s range are on the last pages of the fourth edition of Aaldering’s magazine, available in PDF format from www.aaldering.co.za/magazine
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