Notes from Toronto International Pinotage Tasting

Ontario was enjoying a heat wave during my time there, and I’d taken cold weather gear. 

Toronto’s South African Wine Society organised a unique tasting of 13 Pinotages from five countries plus three US states. It had taken six years to gather them all and on Tuesday 26 August 2014 a keen group of members and interested guests gathered tfor a tutored tasting in the splendid Wedgwood Blue Room in the Toronto University Faculty Club, a 1920’s ivy-covered mansion towered over by the recent modern architecture of university buildings.

 

Faculty Club

Tasters in the Wedgwood Blue Room (photo by Eleanor Cosman) 

Speaker in full flow (photo by Eleanor Cosman)

I was presenting the tasting and unable to take notes so I am indebted to committee member Jon Whitteker for permission to use his.

Topper’s Mountain 2010 wild ferment – Australia / New England NSW  (non grafted vines, 7 years)

—good initial impression, excellent fruit flavours, med. depth & length, plum & red fruit / held up well over 1-2 hours / very good on its own and with food.

Melrose Vineyards 2009 – USA / Oregon  (planted 2005)

—lighter style, short finish, easy drinking but lacking interest.

Barkan Reserve 2010 – Israel / Judean Hills  (8 year vines / started planting in 1995)

—good darker fruit flavours / medium finish / different, non typical flavour profile / pleasant but not compelling.

Lake Breeze Seven Poplars 2010 – Canada / B.C.  (14 years)

—forward, open bouquet / excellent black fruit / impressive with a solid backbone, very good depth and length / a serious wine that will improve with age / goes very well with food.

Stoneboat 2010 – Canada / B.C.  (12 years)

—similar in structure to the Lake Breeze but not the same weight / very good fruit, good length / very good with food.

Lovingston 2011 – USA / Virginia  (vineyard planted in 2008)

—good open nose, very good fruit, different flavour profile but very drinkable

Fort Ross 2007 – USA / California  (root stock imported in 1995)

 . good nose, excellent fruit, very good length and balance / sweeter initial impression which moderated over time / developed more flavour complexity as time progressed / silky tannins in the finish.

J Vineyards Estate RRV 2010 – USA / California (vines from 1994 and 2001)

—very good fruit / more Pinot Noir like initially on the palate / very good length / sweeter initial impression which moderated over time / developed more flavour complexity as time progressed / silky tannins in the finish.

Loma Prieta Winery 2012 - Estate Vineyard, Santa Cruz Mtns (California) … (Second vintage)

—good fruit, sweeter entry, medium-light length, smooth, very pleasant / sweeter initial impression which moderated over time / developed more flavour complexity as time progressed / silky tannins in the finish.

Soljans 2011 – New Zealand / Gisborne

—lighter appearance but abundant strawberry fruit / good length and finish, very drinkable

Muddy Water 2011 – New Zealand / Waipara  (non grafted vines, 18 years)

 —excellent, dark fruit, has good balance and length / has depth & complexity to develop further with time / soft but noticeable tannins enhanced the overall impression.

Black Elephant The Back Roads 2012 – South Africa / Wellington  (old vine, single vineyard)

 —dark, rich fruit / excellent depth and length / lots of potential for the long haul / pronounced but pleasant tannins indicate it age very well and further develop / very impressive.

Swartland  Bush Vine 2010 – South Africa / Swartland  (bush vine blocks, 15 – 37 years)

—good fruit, medium length, pleasant, not overly complex, enjoyable but not compelling.

Format:

Wine was served in 1.25oz (37ml) pours in ISO glasses. Wine was opened and poured 1 to 1½  hours before tasting. Wine was re-tasted up to 2 hours after the initial tasting. Food was served halfway through the tasting and again after the last wine was initially tasted.

After the tasting I spent time in Ontario's wine region to visit wineries and to taste their wines.

I sent my last  day in Ontario as a guest of Peter Laidlaw who farms Fieldmouse Vineyards near Jordan Village, featured on page 183 of my book PINOTAGE. 

Peter planted an experimental row of Pinotage in 2001 and on my last visit in 2006 we harvested the first vintage. Tragedy struck shortly afterwards with the sudden illness and later death of Peter's wife Susan. The vineyards suffered lack of attention aas a result, and no more Pinotage has yet been planted.

I am glad to say I found Peter in good cheer. He has remarried and is very happy. We sat at a table placed among the vines drinking a bottle of Fieldmouse Pinotage (not commercially released) and devouring a delicious Vietnamese feast prepared by Chi Laidlaw and her mother.

Cape Blend Competition 2014 - Winners

 The winners of the Perold Absa Cape Blend Competition were announced on Friday 5 September 2014 at the Taj Hotel, in Cape Town by De Wet Viljoen, Deputy Chairman of the Pinotage Association.

A total of 41 wines from 33 producers were entered.

The five winning Cape Blends and their components are:

• Blake’s Amethyst (Shiraz, Pinotage, Cabernet Sauvignon)
• Clos Malverne Spirit of Malverne (Pinotage, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz)
• Kaapzicht Steytler Vision (Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinotage, Merlot)
• Painted Wolf Peloton Rouge (Pinotage, Shiraz, Merlot, Grenache, Mourvèdre)
• Rhebokskloof The Rhebok Cape Blend (Shiraz, Mourvèdre, Pinotage)

The five other finalists in this year’s Perold Absa Cape Blend Competition were:

• Bottega Family Wines Idiom C 2010
• KWV Abraham Perold Tributum 2012
• Spier Wines Creative Block 8 2012
• Wildekrans Cape Blend Barrel Select Reserve 2012
• Windmeul Cape Blend Reserve 2013

“The exciting thing about the Cape Blend wine category - besides it being uniquely South African - is the diversity if offers,” said Beyers Truter, Chaiiman of The Pinotage Association. “Apart from the borders drawn by the prescribed Pinotage component, the winemaker basically has a clean slate with which to work, causing a category that is as diverse as it is innovative.

Some wines use Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon for a more traditional, Old World Pinotage complement, while the Rhône varieties bring a New World juicy plushness. You must just know, if you do not find a Cape Blend that fits your palate, you are probably not a red wine drinker!”

According to Craig Bond, Chief Executive of Business and Retail Banking at Barclays Africa, Pinotage and the Cape Blend category of wines are truly unique jewels in the crown that is the South African wine industry. “This partnership reflects our long-standing commitment not only to the Pinotage Association but to the South African wine industry as a whole. Our corporate philosophy is strongly centred around ideas, innovation and creativity, and the Cape Blend winemakers reflect these values with their dynamic and passionate search for wines that have an own identity, are creatively put together and reflect the excellence of Brand South Africa, of which we as a bank are proud to be a part of." 

 

From left to right: Andries Blake (Blakes), Danie Steytler (Kaapzicht), Jeremy Borg (Painted Wolf), Suzanne Coetzee (Clos Malverne), Rolanie Lotz (Rheboksloof). 

 

Congrats to all.

WoTM -Stoneboat Pinotage 2008

Beautiful dark bright red colour. First impression is of a luscious silky mouthfeel. This wine is rich, plumptious and spicy. There’s also mulberry with a hint of coffee in the background. A delicious flavoursome wine.

This wine comes from vines growing on their own roots in the sandy desert soils of the Okanagan Valley, British Columbia.

I brought this wine back from my visit to Stoneboat in 2011. To see my report and vineyard videos with the owners see here

 

 (BTW – take a close look at the bottom of the labels to see the dangers in cutting corners by editing a label from another wine.)

Pinotage Top 10 2014 Winners

The winners of the ABSA Pinotage Top 10 2014 Competition were announced at a luncheon at Landtscap venue in Stellenbosch on 15 Aug 2014.

They are:

Allée Bleue - 2012  Pinotage
Bellingham  - 2013 The Bernard Series Bush Vine Pinotage
Beyerskloof - 2011 Diesel Pinotage
Delheim - 2012 Vera Cruz Estate Pinotage
Diemersdal Landgoed - 2013  Pinotage Reserve
Rijk's Cellars - 2010 Reserve Pinotage
Simonsig Estate - 2012 Redhill Pinotage
Spier -2012 21 Gables Pinotage
Wildekrans Wine Estate - 2012  Pinotage Barrel Select Reserve
Windmeul Kelder - 2013  Pinotage Reserve

A list packed with solid Pinotage producers with excellent track records. Congratulations to all!

International Pinotage Tasting - Toronto 26 August 2014

The South African Wine Society of Toronto, Canada, is holding a 'one-of-a-kind' Pinotage tasting on Tuesday 26 August 2014.

I'll be there, and we'll be pouring Pinotages from South Africa, New Zealand, California, Oregon Virginia, Canada,  Israel and Australia.

For details of the event, list of wines and booking form go to http://www.southafricanwinesociety.ca

Hope to see you there!

Cape Blend 2014 Finalists

Just announced are the 10 finalists for the 2014 annual ABSA Cape Blend Competition.

2011 Blake's Amethyst
2012 Clos Malverne Spirit of Malverne Limited Release
2010 Idiom C
2010 Kaapzicht Steytler Vision Cape Blend
2012 KWV Abraham Perold Tributum
2009 Painted Wolf Peloton Rouge
2012 Rhebokskloof The Rhebok Cape Blend Limited Edition
2012 Spier Creative Block 8
2012 Wildekrans Cape Blend Barrel Select Reserve
2013 Windmeul Cape Blend Reserve

Exciting  mix of previous winners and newcomers!

Congrats to all for getting to the finals.

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First German Pinotage

Germany has long been said to grow Pinotage, but extensive research for my 2009 book proved to my satisfaction that there was none outside nurseries.

But there is now. In 2008 Stefan Bietighöfer planted about a quarter hectare of Pinotage and added a further 0.65 ha in 2012.

Winemaker Stefan Dorst had been impressed by a bottle of Bietighöfer’s Pinot Noir but was astonished when he learned he’d planted Pinotage. “Who needs Pinotage from the Palatinate? No man!” was his initial response.

  Dorst had worked in South Africa and had fifteen years making Pinotage at Laibach Estate. Now back in Germany with his own négociant business, Dorst was the obvious man to turn Bietighöfer’s grapes into wine.

“The Pinotage grape is a diva who wants to be vinified correctly, then and only then it shows the outstanding qualities of the mother variety Pinot Noir”, says Dorst. “Pinotage grows well here on a limey, sandy loam soil in one of the warmer areas of German wine regions.”

Their first vintage was 2010 and the next won 2nd place at Vinum Red Wine Award in the category “new breeds” for Dorst & Bietighöf. They annually produce about 1,000 bottles.

Wine and food blogger Martin Zwick has tasted two vintages:

2011 Dorst & Bietighöfer Pinotage

The yield is very low at 25 hl / ha. This gives the grapes a high concentration of aromas. The grapes were harvested in late October and initially macerated cold for 24 hours to obtain maximum extraction of colour and tannins. After the fermentation started on the skins 30 to 32 ° C. Once the wine an alcohol level of 10% vol. pressed and completes the alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel tanks. Here it passes through a portion of malolactic fermentation, and is completed in new French oak barrels and then aged for 12 months in 225 litre French oak barrels. On 14 November 2012, the wine was bottled unfiltered, protecting its rich fruit and intense, natural varietal character.

This Pinotage has class. It is many years since I have had such a good Pinotage in the glass and I would say that only a few representatives from South Africa can compete with this. Impressively juicy and velvety fruit of blackberries, black currants, plums, spices and dark chocolate. Displays the balance and structure of a great wine and you can tell that Mr Dorst is familiar with the grape Pinotage for many years.

2012 Dorst & Bietighöfer Pinotage

In this Pinotage from the Palatinate we have, as it were, the best of both worlds: the spice and power of Cinsaut and the finesse and charming awareness of Pinot Noir. Beguiling perfume with a velvety and silky texture. Cherry, plum, spices and very Burgundian in the finish. Beautifully fresh on the palate and never rustic or alcoholic. Belongs definitely to the red wine elite in Germany. 

Thanks to Martin for permission to quote from his posts on the German Wine Forum and blog. The above has been translated thanks to Google and the original German text can be read at Dasweinforum.de and his Berlinkitchen33 blog

WoTM : Fleur du Cap Pinotage Roobernet 2001

My wine of the Month for July is truly a rarity. Indeed, it deserves the overused word ‘unique’, for it is a blend of two South African varieties, Pinotage and Roobernet.

Roobernet is a crossing between Cabernet Sauvignon and Alicante Bouschet.  Professor Chris Orffer at Stellenbosch University thought and intended that the latter vine was South Africa’s historic Pontac. Both are rare teinturer varieties, meaning their flesh and juice are red instead of clear like nearly all other wine grapes. The crossing was made in the vineyard and Prof Orffer had doubts later and DNA examination showed the true parentage

Roobernet doesn’t appear to have grabbed winemakers attention. This is the only bottle I have seen its name on, although I understand it has subsequently appeared in occasional blends but the only varietal I am aware of is a Cape Ruby port style Roobernet made by Jacques Smit.

I expect, tho’, that it appears uncredited in some red wines as teinturer grapes make very deep red-black wines useful for adding colour to otherwise pale red wines.

I bought this wine, the first and last, Pinotage Roobernet made by Fleur du Cap at their cellar shop at the Bergkelder in Stellenbosch, carried it back to the UK  and kept it for a special occasion.  A recent discussion about Pontac reminded me that I’d kept it long enough.

I feared it may be passed its best, but I think at 13 years old I found it at its peak. I have no idea what Roobernet should taste like, but its 45% contribution seems to have given a solidity and base notes to the 55% Pinotage majority. This was a four square serious adult wine, full bodied with a sweet core to give lift (presumably from Pinotage) and an discrete spiciness. I greatly enjoyed it with dinner and if they make any more, I’ll be buying.

Pinotage Top 10 2014 -- The Finalists

The 20 Finalists of the 2014 ABSA Top 10 competition are:

Allée Bleue - 2012 Allée Bleue Pinotage
Bellingham  - 2013 Bellingham The Bernard Series Bush Vine Pinotage
Beyerskloof - 2011 Beyerskloof Diesel Pinotage
Delheim - 2012 Delheim Vera Cruz Estate Pinotage
Dewaldt Heyns - 2012 Weathered Hands Pinotage
Diemersdal Landgoed - 2013 Diemersdal Pinotage Reserve
Eikendal Vineyards - 2012 Eikendal Pinotage
KWV - 2012 KWV The Mentors Pinotage
Maastricht Wines - 2013 Maastricht Pinotage
Nuy Wynkelder -  2013 Nuy Barrel Selection Pinotage
Olsen Private Vineyards - 2012 Olsen Pinotage
Perdeberg Wynkelder - 2012 Perdeberg The Dry Land Collection Pinotage
Rhebokskloof -  2012 Rhebokskloof Pinotage
Rijk's Cellars - 2010 Rijk's Reserve Pinotage
Simonsig Landgoed 2012 Simonsig Pinotage Redhill
Spier 2012 Spier 21 Gables Pinotage
Stanford Hills 2012 Stanford Hills Jacksons Pinotage
Whalehaven Wines 2012 Whalehaven Pinotage
Wildekrans Wine Estate 2012 Wildekrans Pinotage Barrel Select Reserve
Windmeul Kelder 2013 Windmeul Pinotage Reserve

There's an interesting mix of previous winners, Pinotage stalwarts, newcomers and some names quite new to me. From these 20 will come the final 'Top 10'.

Every year the Pinotage quality just gets better and better.

Congratulations to all and best wishes for the final.

WOTM - Niel Joubert 2011

 

 

 

My Wine of the Month for June is Niel Joubert Estate Pinotage 2011, WO Paarl.

On the last weekend of the month we were on the south-east coast to walk the coastal path from Ramsgate to Margate.

I was delighted to find this quality Pinotage on the list of the Minster Tandoori Indian restaurant in that small country village.

It was a hot day but the wine was correctly served cool which allowed the wine’s crisp spiciness to shine.  There’s some oak in the background giving structure and over time some smokiness – a hint of barbeque charcoal – which ideally matched the tandoori grilled meat.

This delicious fruity spicy wine with a smoky oak twist is a worthy WOTM.

 

Pinotage in Michigan

3 North Vines is a new estate near Lexington, Michigan which has planted two varieties new to the region. One of these is Pinotage which in 2009 they first to plant  in Michigan and 2011 saw their first Pinotage vintage.

Owner Nate Shopbell tells me that he fell in love with Pinotage after visiting Kanonkop Estate and many others when he visited South Africa in 2006.

"We have been growing about an acre of Pinotage which we had grafted ourselves onto rootstock that we planted in 2009," he says.  "We have been really happy with our wine quality from our two harvests so far of those vines.  This past winter was a particularly harsh one for the Midwest and unfortunately I have a fair amount of loss both from Crown Gall and winter cold damage."


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WoTM - Beeslaar Pinotage 2012

Abrie Beeslaar is winemaker at Kanonkop. Since taking up duties in 2002 he has seen that range expand with the barrel selection ‘black label’ estate Pinotage, and red and rosé Kadette Pinotages, and won the International Winemaker of the Year Trophy for 2008 at the International Wine and Spirits Competition.

 

My Wine of the Month for May is the first vintage from Abrie's private venture. Beeslaar 2012 Pinotage is from a single Stellenbosch vineyard. Only 4,700 bottles were produced, around 16 barrels.

Dense intense red with bright edges and softy scented with blackberries. First impression in mouth is of creamy smooth softness, then plum flavours backed with a savouriness on the palate finishing with a dusting of coffee.

This is a gorgeous wine now, but although the label says it’s best to drink from 2014 I think it’d benefit from keeping longer. It’s not yet been in bottle for a year and I think with a little more time the oak effects of 17 months in 50/50 first and second fill would make way to reveal more fruit.

Beeslaar Pinotage 2012 is available in the UK and Hongkong from importer Vincisive Wines Ltd, www.vincisive.co.uk www.vincisive.com.hk

Beeslaar Pinotage 2012

WO Stellenbosch

Alcohol: 14.5

Residual Sugar: 1.29

pH: 3.65

Total Acidity: 5.66

Total Sulphites: 95mg/L

Thanks to Darren Brogden of Vincisive for the sample.

Pinotage Retrospective 1966 - 2012

Wines of South Africa held a tasting yesterday focusing on Chenin and Pinotage. Greg Sherwood MW tutored us on nine excellent Chenins before handing over to  Gavin Patterson who is the winemaker at, and director of, Sumaridge Wines in Walker Bay.

Gavin Patterson

Gavin told us he first planted Pinotage 25 years ago in his native Zimbabwe and his 1994 vintage was voted best wine at a tasting in South Africa attended by Beyers Truter. He said that when training as a winemaker he was taught that the taste profile of Pinotage then was acetone, prunes and leather. Overextraction doesn’t suit Pinotage, and winemakers are now making very different Pinotages. It is a variety, says Gavin, that is very stable in barrel and very ageworthy. We were about to prove that second statement.

The wines:

1.       Diemersdal Pinotage, 1998

ABV: 13.6%

Blend: 100% Pinotage

Region: Durbanville

Winemaker: Thys Louw

From 22 year old (in 1998) dry-farmed vines. Served from a decanter this was dry and dusty, still tight, but full bodied and dark fruited.

2.       Kanonkop Pinotage, 1999

ABV: 13.5%
Blend: 100% Pinotage
Region: Simonsberg – Stellenbosch
Winemaker: Beyers Truter

 From bush vines then 54 years old, this was gorgeously soft with sweet fruit. I loved this when I first tasted it in 2000 and every subsequent time it has just got better and better.

3.       Kanonkop Pinotage, 2003

ABV: 14.5%

Blend: 100% Pinotage

Region: Simonsberg – Stellenbosch

Winemaker: Abrie Beeslar

Change of winemaker and the vines are four years older, this is silky and spicy but maybe a bit less voluptuous than the 99 it's a crackingly enjoyable wine.

4.       Simonsig Pinotage, 2003

ABV: 14.8%
Blend: 100% Pinotage
Region: Stellenbosch
Winemaker: Johan Malan

A surprise for me because this is Simonsig’s unwooded Pinotage, though some tasters thought it had seen oak. It is a beautiful wine; soft, sweet raspberry and berry fruits. An elegant wine.

5.       Beyerskloof Pinotage Reserve, 2006

ABV: 14.6%
Blend: 100% Pinotage
Region: Stellenbosch
Winemaker: Anri Truter

A wine I have bought a lot of. Mellowing now, light bodied, sweet and elegant with a long finish. Almost a feminine wine, if one can believe that of Pinotage. 

 

6.       Neethlingshof Pinotage, 2006

ABV: 14.4%

Blend: 100% Pinotage

Region: Stellenbosch

Winemaker: De Wet Viljoen

Feremnted in rototanks with 14 months aging in 43% new French (80%) and American (20%) oak barrels.

A chunky wine with grainy tannins and chewy fruit. Very much a masculine Pinotage to contrast with the previous.

7.       L’Avenir Pinotage, 2011

ABV: 14%
Blend: 100% Pinotage
Region: Stellenbosch
Winemaker: Dirk Coetzee

Clean fresh spicy fruit; well integrated oak tannins, delicious.

8.       Altydgedacht  Pinotage, 2011

ABV: 14.7%

Blend: 100% Pinotage

Region: Durbanville

Winemaker: Etienne Louw

Four days cold soak to encourage gentle extraction of fruit flavours then fermented in closed tanks with pump-over. Aged 14 months in 40% new American (80%) and French (20%) oak barrels for 10 months.

Clean, refreshing and very elegant. Minerally with spicy black cherry fruits. Lovely wine.

9.       Lyngrove Platinum Pinotage, 2012

ABV: 14.5%
Blend: 100% Pinotage
Region: Stellenbosch
Winemaker: Danielle le Roux

 Barrel selection, cold soaked and aged 15 months in 40% new French oak barrels. Deliciously silky smooth with a tangy finish.

10.     Sumaridge Epitome, 2009

ABV: 14.1%
Blend: 57% Shiraz, 43% Pinotage
Region: Walker Bay
Winemaker: Gavin Patterson

 This is Gavin’s own wine. Sumaridge don’t  nowcmake a Pinotage varietal. This Cape blend was a winner in the 2013 Cape Blend competition and as part of his prize Gavin is soon heading off to visit winemakers in Portugal’s Douro where he is intending exploring their indigenous varieties.

Barrel selection, aged 12 months in 50% ch oak  500L and 225L barrels. “I’m making a Cape blend with a Rhone element – the Shiraz brings its pepperyness to the blend.”

Powerful tasting wine, but quite restrained flavours as if the two strong tasting varieties cancelled each other out.

Then came a surprise. Two old wines, Meerendal 1982 and Stellenbosch Farmers Winery ‘Lanzerac’ 1966…..

Meerendal 1982 tasted meaty and of forest floor, like dried meats on a bed of mushrooms.

SFW ‘Lanzerac’ 1966. This is only the seventh ever vintage of a Pinotage varietal, the first ever commercial bottling being the 1959 vintage released under the Lanzerac brand in 1961. They were intended for immediate drinking, not for keeping. The cork in this bottle had guarded its contents for almost half a century and did not want to surrender its contents, but finally it was defeated and the wine poured into a decanter and served. A light brown colour, this 48 year old wine was surprisingly fresh, with fine sweet berry fruits and a good body. It was quite delicious. 

Thanks to WoSA, the Pinotage Association for supplying the wines, Gavin Patterson for telling us about them and High Timber South African restaurant on the banks of the Thames for hosting the tasting and making us so very welcome.

 I learned that when dining at High Timber one doesn’t choose wine from a list; instead you descend to their cellar to choose from 32,000 mostly South African bottles including an exclusive bottling of the FMC Chenin. FMC is their best selling RSA white (Chateau d’Yquem is their best selling French wine!) while Newton Johnson Pinot Noir is their best selling RSA red wine.

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