Not everything smells sweet in South Africa’s vineyards. Down at the bottom end producers are struggling to survive in the face of a weak rand, virused vineyards and a drought. The big boys don’t help by churning out oceans of evil, cheap, bulk wines and Cape pinotage is still too often tainted by the smell of burnt rubber.
However, handled properly, the grape can produce good wines, as anyone tasting Flagstone’s inky yet red-fruited 2015 Writer’s Block Pinotage, a 14.5 per cent whizz from Breedekloof, an inland area once just known for bulk wine production, will attest (Wine Rack, £13.99).
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